Compost heap
The soil underneath a compost heap is highly fertile, full of worms, excellent for planting. It is silly to only make a compost heap in one fixed location. Consider a moving compost heap that prepares each bed for planting. Ingredients: 45% *green* = nitrogen food scraps weeds lawn clippings waterweeds 45% *brown* = carbon hay dead leaves sawdust residue from carbon crops shredded paper 10% starter culture compost left over from the last pile soil manure, or comfrey if manure not available {jeavons-htgm} only uses soil; manure is "unbalanced" Building a new compost heap There are two main methods for building and maintaining a compost heap: cold composting and hot composting. Best time = spring and autumn — more microbial activity away from extreme seasons, also more biological material usually available Select a site *at least* 1 m^2 Best site is under an oak tree — best soil microbes {jeavons-htgm} Second-best is under any deciduous tree, except walnut or eucalyptus With a fork, loosen soil 25cm deep where you're building the pile Lay down 6cm layer of rough materials — twigs, etc 6cm layer of green Thin layer (2cm) of soil or manure Repeat, watering as you go, until pile is 1 — 1.5 m high. 45% brown, 45% green, 10% soil. Shove a stake into the heart of the pile 2-3 times to make air holes Cover with final layer of soil or dry material +/- straw or old hessian bags to keep out too much rain Let "cook" for 3 to 6 months Water periodically with seaweed tea Maybe turn at 3 weeks (see below) {seymour-ssg}: Method of Dr Shewell-Cooper: Use a wooden bin First layer of woody vegetation goes straight onto soil Then alternate layers of vegetation and nitrogenous material (include a few spadefuls of soil as well) Keep the whole thing covered with an old carpet or tarp Keep moist Turning the compost heap {baxter-kgg} does not mention turning. {woodrow-phg}: turn after 1 week, 2 weeks and 3 weeks. A fork is best for turning. Break up any clods, move the outside to the inside, and move the whole heap by a few feet. {jeavons-htgm}: turning is best done only once, at 3 weeks. Turning is not compulsory. Turning makes the compost mature faster, but you get less compost than if you leave it unturned. Why cover the heap? To prevent rainwater from leaching away nutrients and making the heap too wet To deter vermin To help retain heat, hastening decomposition Problems There is a lot of overlap with the problems that can affect worm farms. Ammonia smell Too much nitrogenous material. Add more woody material, paper, etc. Other bad smell Inadequate aeration. Turn the pile, poke holes with a spear Consider building the pile with a permanent "aeration system" (indwelling PVC pipes with holes) Ensure the pile is not over-wet. Materials break down too slowly Cutting up or breaking up materials before adding them to the pile will greatly accelerate decomposition. Hot composting proceeds much faster than cold. My "hot" compost pile is not getting hot enough The pile may be too small The pile for hot composting should be formed all at once, not piecemeal If the pile is too wet, this will hinder bacterial activity Cover the pile with a tarp to help retain heat Resources http://www.permacultureinbrittany.com/2011/12/making-compost-with-geoff-lawton.html — how to hot compost quickly {baxter-kgg} p123 {woodrow-phg} p74-75 {jeavons-htgm} p37 <> <> <> building component culture fertiliser heat Category:Building